di 


UC-NRLF 


CNJ 


m  MEM©litIAM 
Mary  J.   L.    McDonald 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2007  with  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


http://www.archive.org/details/diaryofmyeuropeaOOfleiriGh 


DIARY  OF  MY 

EUROPEAN  TRIP 


By 
DELIA  STERN  FLEISHACKER 


NEW  YORK 

PUBLISHERS'  Printing  Company 

1903 


IW  MEMORIAM 

I 


These  ideas  and  impressions  have  been  jotted  down  during 

the  wee  small  hours  after  each  day's  travel.     They 

may  be  faulty,  and  of  no  interest  to  any  one  but 

my  dear  children,  to  whom  they  are  most 

lovingly  dedicated  by   their  mother. 

DELIA  STERN  FLEISHACKER. 

October  Second,  Nineteen  Hundred. 


984131. 


CONTENTS  4 


Page 
I.  San  Francisco  to  Gibraltar — On  the 

Mediterranean, 1-5 

II.  Naples  and  Vesuvius— Dead  and  Live 

Cities, 7-20 

III.  The  Eternal  City— Florence— Milan 

—  Genoa  —  Nice  —  Monte    Carlo  — 
"The  Bride  of  the  Adriatic,"  .        .  21-35 

IV.  The   Blue  Danube  —  Austria's    Mag- 

nificent Capital,  ....  37-40 

V.  Munich  —  Ober  -  Ammergau    and   the 
Passion-Play — Thrifty   Nuremberg- 
^    ERs  and  their  Ancient  (?)  Curios,    .  41-49 

VI.  Carlsbad  — "On     to     Berlin"  — The 

Rhine, 51-59 

VII.  The    Paradise    of    Europe,   Switzer- 
land,           61-66 

VIII.  Incomparable    Paris  —  Versailles — 

London— Home  Again,         .        .        .  67-74 


30iar^  of  Mv  European  Crip> 
X900 


I 

N  Sunday,  March  the  fourth,  nine- 
teen hundred,  at  8  o'clock  a.  m., 
I  left  San  Francisco  in  company 
with  my  beloved  sons,  Mortimer 
and  Herbert  and  Louis,  en  route 
for  Europe.  My  dear  boys  accom- 
panied me  as  far  as  Truckee.  In  the  face 
of  the  Sierra  Nevada  Mountains  we  bade 
each  other  farewell.  In  company  with  my 
friend,  Mrs.  T.,  I  continued  eastward. 
After  a  very  pleasant  but  uneventful  jour- 
ney of  four  days,  we  arrived  in  New  York 
City,  where  I  was  greeted  by  my  beloved 
children  —  Emma,  Blanche,  Sigmund,  and 
Frank.     I  remained   there  fourteen  days. 


minx^  of  ^^  CButopran  Wnp,  1900 

On  March  the  twenty-fourth  I  sailed,  in 
company  with  my  children  and  grand- 
child (the  Rosenbaums),  on  the  Steamer 
"  Trave,"  on  our  way  to  Italy.  The  Atlan- 
tic Ocean  was  calm  and  lovely.  We  ar- 
rived •' ;'at, .  the  Island  St.  Miguel  Friday, 
March,  the  thirtieth,  and  at  St.  Vincent, 
Portugal,: Sunday,  April  first.  We  enjoyed 
simply  seeing  land.  On  Monday,  April  sec- 
ond, we  arrived  at  Gibraltar.  At  lo  o'clock 
A.  M.,  we  went  ashore  in  a  tender.  The 
first  thing  upon  entering  the  harbor  that 
attracts  one  is  the  wonderful  mammoth 
rock.  This  Rock  of  Gibraltar  extends 
into  the  sea.  After  getting  on  terra  Jirma 
we  hired  a  wagon  and  drove  to  the  tele- 
graph office.  I  sent  a  telegram  to  my  dar- 
ling children  in  San  Francisco  for  the 
nominal  sum  of  four  shillings — one  dollar 
in  our  coin.  I  also  received  a  telegram 
at  Gibraltar  from  my  children  Blanche 
and  Frank,  handed  to  me  on  the  steamer 
as  we  arrived.  After  going  to  the  post- 
office  to  mail  letters  to  all  our  dear  ones 


SDiari?  of  ^^  European  ^tip,  1900 

in  America,  we  started  to  see  the  sights  of 
Gibraltar.  It  has  only  twenty-eight  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  It  is  a  very  hilly  city 
with  very  narrow  streets.  All  the  houses 
are  built  of  stone.  Many  of  these  houses, 
being  built  upon  the  steep  side  hills,  look 
as  though  they  would  topple  over.  Eng- 
lish as  well  as  Spanish  soldiers  are  plentiful 
here;  the  English  dressed  in  bright  red 
coats  and  crazy-looking  little  patent-leather 
black  caps  perched  on  one  side  of  their 
heads.  Some  are  dressed  in  Highland  cos- 
tumes, short  plaid  skirts  and  bare  legs, 
while  the  Spanish  soldiers  look  very  poorly, 
dressed  in  brown  linen,  queerly  made  uni- 
forms. 

Gibraltar  is  what  it  is  intended  to  be,  a 
perfect  fortification.  There  is  a  market- 
place called  the  "  Jews'  Market."  It  seems 
more  like  an  auction-place.  It  is  plenti- 
fully stocked  with  fruits  and  flowers.  Very 
inferior,  however,  to  the  sight  of  a  Califor- 
nian,  are  these  products.  People  of  all  na- 
tionalities seem  to  congregate  at  the  mar- 
3 


SDiar^  of  ^^  European  ^tip,  1900 

ket-place,  some  dressed  in  picturesque  cos- 
tumes. It  seemed  that  all  who  were  not 
soldiers  wanted  to  sell  something  to  the 
passengers.  The  Moors  went  about  trying 
to  sell  funny-looking  copper  coins.  I 
bought  a  dozen  fresh  eggs  from  a  Turk  in 
regal  costume  for  eight  pence — 16  cents. 
Without  hearing  a  joke,  and  even  without 
seeing  any  prominent  noses  amongst  us,  he 
said,  ''I'm  a  Yahuda";  this  being  proba- 
bly a  trick  of  his  trade — to  be  of  any  relig- 
ion the  occasion  might  warrant.  I  bought 
a  money-pouch  from  an  African.  Very 
small  donkeys  do  all  the  hauling  of  very 
big  loads  strapped  on  either  side  of  them 
in  huge  baskets.  Many  Spanish  women 
run  about  here,  some  quite  pretty,  but 
wearing  neither  shoes,  stockings,  nor  hats. 
Altogether,  we  spent  a  few  pleasant  hours 
looking  at  a  queer,  pretty  little  city,  and  a 
very  funny,  mixed-up  lot  of  people.  We 
said:  "Good-bye,  Gibraltar." 

On  the  second  day  out  of  Gibraltar  we 
passed  from  the  Atlantic  Ocean  into  the 
4 


2Diai:^  of  £$^  (European  W^tip,  1900 

Mediterranean  Sea,  so  the  ship's  officers 
planned  a  surprise.  While  the  passengers 
were  at  dinner  the  decks  were  dressed  in 
gala  attire.  Flags  of  all  nations  enclosed 
the  sides  of  the  vessel,  and  at  9  o'clock  a 
grand  ball  commenced.  The  water  of  the 
Mediterranean  Sea  being  less  deep  than 
that  of  the  Atlantic  Ocean,  caused  a  plung- 
ing and  rocking  for  the  entire  evening. 
The  dancing  people,'  however,  kept  upon 
their  feet  and  danced  to  the  music  of  a  fine 
German  ship's  band.  Wednesday,  April 
fourth,  is  a  calm,  lovely  day.  We  are  glid- 
ing along  with  a  number  of  small  islands  in 
sight.  To-morrow,  Thursday,  at  6  a.  m.,  we 
shall  arrive  at  Naples,  and  this  will  termi- 
nate our  ocean  voyage. 

Thus  far,  we  have  met  very  many  pleas- 
ant people.  The  irony  of  fate  is  peculiar. 
Some  people  with  whom  we  became  ac- 
quainted left  us  at  Gibraltar,  to  travel 
through  Africa,  etc. ;  others  of  our  number 
are  residents  of  Africa,  just  getting  away 
from  there  to  do  Italy,  France,  etc. 
5 


II 

IDNIGHT,  April  fifth,  we  ar- 
rived at  the  beautiful  city  of 
Naples.  Early  in  the  morning 
a  tender  carried  as  many  pas- 
sengers at  a  time  as  such  a  miser- 
able, small  boat  could  take.  The 
Italians,  however,  provided  amusement  for 
us.  A  little  band  of  strolling  singers  were 
making  a  musical  noise — girls  playing  gui- 
tars, mandolins,  and  tambourines,  the  men 
playing  violins,  etc.  It  was  very  inferior 
music  for  Italy.  We  probably  had  no 
right  to  expect  grand  opera  for  the  miser- 
able, paltry,  few  pennies  every  one  dropped 
into  their  tambourines.  Arriving  at  Na- 
ples, and  having  to  go  to  the  custom-house, 
a  trying  time  awaited  us  to  get  our 
trunks.  Oh,  what  a  crazy,  excitable  mob 
these  Italians  are!  They  really  do  not 
know  the  word  tranquillity.  Such  howl- 
7 


2E>iar^  of  ^^  Curopean  ^rip^  1900 

ing,  pushing  and  fussing,  and  opening 
our  trunks !  After  being  told  that  a  box  of 
cigars  was  the  only  contrabrand  goods, 
and  Sigmund  being  willing  to  pay  duty 
upon  them,  we  were  allowed  to  depart. 
We  drove  to  the  Grand  Hotel,  and  grand 
it  is,  indeed,  overlooking  on  one  side  the 
beautiful  mountains  and  hills  that  are  dotted 
with  fine  palaces.  Some  smaller  houses  are 
to  be  seen,  but  all  built  of  stone  or  marble. 
Great  domes  abound  on  the  hillsides.  On 
the  other  side  lies  the  beautiful  Bay  of 
Naples.  A  wonderful  panorama  is  before 
the  eye,  reminding  one  of  past  ages  as  well 
as  of  present  enterprise.  Sight-seeing  now 
commenced.  We  drove  through  the  city 
of  Naples,  to  get  to  the  old  cloister  of  St. 
Martin's.  It  rests  on  the  very  mountain 
top  and  overlooks  Mount  Vesuvius,  the 
Bay  of  Naples,  and  the  entire  city.  Such 
a  wonderful  sight  was  before  us,  and  far  be- 
low us  appeared  a  sight  of  fairy-land  which 
is  almost  indescribable.  At  this  ancient 
monastery  we  saw  the  skiff  of  Ferdinand 
8 


SDiar^  of  ^^  CBuropean  Wxip,  1900 

the  Second,  magnificently  carved,  the  very 
ship  he  came  on  to  be  crowned  in  1700. 
Grand  old  pictures,  bronzes,  and  wonderful 
majolicas  are  exhibited  here.  The  monks 
who  lived  in  this  monastery  years  ago  are 
all  buried  around  this  marvellous  building. 
The  Neapolitan  people  keep  all  these  won- 
ders in  fine  condition,  and  take  great  pride 
in  showing  them  to  tourists.  A  visit  to 
the  Museum  Neapolitan  is  one  of  the  great 
events  while  at  Naples.  Nowhere  can  one 
see  quite  as  many  ancient  marble  statues, 
busts,  bronzes,  mosaics,  and  art-glass  won- 
ders as  here.  Ancient  cooking  utensils  are 
quaint  and  in  great  variety.  Naples  is  a 
beautiful  city,  and  the  aristocracy  is  great. 
However,  the  democracy  is  of  the  poorest. 
Although  the  poor  people  live  in  big 
houses,  they  have  only  a  few  dark  rooms 
with  no  rear  outlet,  no  light,  only  that  which 
creeps  in  through  the  entrance.  Hence 
these  poor  creatures  have  to  perform  many 
duties  in  the  streets  and  doorways,  such  as 
nourishing  their  offspring,  combing  and 
9 


2Diar^  of  ^^  (European  tE^rip,  1900 

washing  them,  mending,  and  fondling  their 
not  overly  clean  children,  all  in  very  close 
proximity  to  their  little  fruit-stands,  where 
they  sell  oranges,  dried  fruits,  nuts,  and  vari- 
ous other  things,  all  very  inferior  in  quality 
and  very  dirty-looking  at  best.  While  driv- 
ing through  the  suburbs  one  sees  miles  of 
spaghetti  hanging  in  the  dusty  road  to  dry 
in  the  sun.  The  same  is  later  enjoyed  by 
all  as  very  delicious  food. 

Naples  is  a  fine  camping-ground,  as  it 
leads  to  many  wonderful  places,  and  is 
the  nearest  and  best  outlet  for  sight-seeing 
in  Italy.  From  Naples  we  went,  on  April 
nth,  to  see  the  great,  the  wonderful  Vesu- 
vius. After  a  ride  of  three  and  a  half  hours 
by  carriage,  one  takes  a  twelve-minutes' 
ride  on  probably  the  shortest  and  straight- 
est  cable-car  in  the  world.  The  height 
being  varied  from  over  three  to  four  thou- 
sand feet  to  the  top,  it  was  indeed  very 
dangerous  looking.  When  reaching  this 
pinnacle  one  is  rarely  satisfied,  but  wishes 
to  see  the  crater  itself  of  this  destructive 


Wiu^  of  ^1^  dDuropean  ^tip^  1900 

fire-  and  smoke-spitting  volcano.  Three 
men  are  needed  to  carry  one  person  in  a 
chair  to  the  very  top.  It  is  a  dreadful 
sight  to  look  into  this  mammoth  cavern 
or  opening  that  spits  forth  fire,  smoke,  and 
lava,  and  we  were  obliged  to  cover  our 
heads  with  our  carriage  blankets,  and  then 
were  nearly  strangled  by  the  fumes.  We 
may  have  had  a  bad  day.  It  can,  however, 
never  be  anything  but  gruesome  on  the 
pinnacle  of  this  mount.  It  is  majestic,  but 
fearful,  and  when  thinking  of  the  destruc- 
tion this  monster  has  caused,  one  leaves 
the  mountain  with  the  wish  never  to  look 
upon  its  like  again,  yet  satisfied  that  one 
has  faced  the  danger  and  it  is  past.  Som.e 
hardy  people  climb  the  eminence,  but  many 
give  out  and  are  thankful  to  pay  one  of  the 
guides  to  be  permitted  to  hang  on  to  a 
strap  fastened  about  their  waists,  and  be 
thus  carried  upwards.  Going  down  is  a 
slippery  business.  The  guides  have  to  slide 
along  on  the  steep,  soft  mountain  side. 
Everything  seems  black  and  sooty,  and  the 
II 


SDiati?  of  ^^  European  ^rip,  1900 

grandeur  of  Vesuvius  is  enhanced  by  see- 
ing it  at  a  distance,  and  particularly  at  sun- 
set. Returning  to  Naples,  we  viewed  again 
the  marble  houses,  many  having,  in 
American  parlance.  Dago  clothes  hanging 
from  the  windows,  and  it  really  seemed  like 
sacrilege  to  see  the  red  and  yellow  shirts 
and  garments  hanging  from  marble  build- 
ings occupied  by  these  poor,  dirty  Nea- 
politans, whose  greatest  delight  seems  to 
be  to  eat  raw  onions  and  cheese  grated 
into  their  soup  —  cheese,  in  fact,  in  any 
way  and  at  every  meal  —  and  one  sees 
cheeseshops  where  they  sell  the  article 
from  the  size  of  an  apple  up  to  the  size  of 
a  small  wagon-wheel. 

April  twelfth,  we  left  Naples  for  the 
beautiful  town  of  Sorrento,  by  way  of  Cas- 
tellamare.  After  leaving  the  train  at  Cas- 
tellamare,  we  expected  to  take  a  carriage  at 
once  for  our  destination.  Here,  however, 
we  allowed  ourselves  to  be  fooled  by  one  of 
those  Italian  rogues  who  came  to  us  with  a 
Cook  &  Co.  badge  pinned  on  his  coat,  and, 


2r>iar^  of  ^^  (I];uropean  Wxip^  1900 

telling  us  to  step  for  a  few  minutes  into 
the  cafe,  and  taking  our  hand-bags  away 
from  us,  we  had  to  follow.  Many  carriages 
were  waiting,  but  this  rascal  told  us  he 
would  provide  us  with  a  safe  conveyance 
and  good  driver,  while  we  would  take  a 
cup  of  good  coffee  before  taking  this 
long  ride.  In  a  very  few  minutes  the  car- 
riages all  disappeared,  and  I  became  suspi- 
cious and  asked  my  children  what  we  were 
waiting  for.  The  rascal  at  last  could  keep 
us  no  longer,  after  offering  us  all  kinds  of 
his  musty  cakes,  for  which  we  had  to  pay 
him  good,  clean  money.  He  finally  got  us 
an  old  rattletrap  and  off  we  started,  paying 
him  in  advance.  I  kept  complaining  and 
had  my  suspicions,  and  spoke  of  them. 
When  we  had  gone  a  few  blocks  from  the 
station  the  rascally  driver  told  us  his  horse 
was  lame  and  he  could  go  no  farther,  and 
across  the  wayside  there  was  a  man  who 
had  the  right  to  drive  people  to  Sorrento, 
if  we  would  pay  him  two  dollars  more.  So 
the  imitation  Cook's  agent  sold  us  his 
13 


Wm^  of  ^^  CBuropean  ^rip,  1900 

coffee,  and  sold  us  into  the  bargain,  in  spite 
of  our  being  smart  Americans.  After  driv- 
ing through  a  picturesque  little  village 
called  Meta,  having  about  eight  thousand 
inhabitants,  we  soon  entered  Sorrento  and 
drove  to  the  Grand  Hotel  Tramentano, 
owned  by  Signer  Tramentano,  a  perfect 
palace,  where  the  great  Italian  poet  Tasso 
was  born.  We  drank  our  coffee  in  the 
very  room  where  he  first  saw  the  light  of 
day.  Many  of  these  hotels  are  situated  on 
an  abrupt  hill  rising  from  the  sea,  and  have 
magnificent  gardens,  or  rather  groves,  of 
orange  and  lemon  trees.  They  have  pri- 
vate stairs  descending  to  the  sea,  where 
there  are  small  bathing- rooms.  The  view 
is  magnificent.  These  orange  and  lemon 
trees  are  growing  there  without  cultivation, 
just  as  our  oak  and  fir  trees  grow.  Sor- 
rento is  famous  for  its  beautiful  wood-carv- 
ing establishments ;  also  marqueterie,  inlaid 
goods,  and  silk  manufacture.  All  these 
Roman  colorings  are  as  nothing  compared 
to  the  glorious  view  where  castles  and  huge 
14 


SDiar^  of  ^^  European  tETap,  1900 

mountains  seem  to  commingle,  and  look  as 
though  ready  to  dip  together  into  the  sea 
and  slide  along  into  the  placid  blue  waters. 
On  April  fourteenth  we  drove  from  Sor- 
rento to  the  greatest  of  all  wonders,  the 
dead  and  resurrected  city  of  Pompeii.  The 
entrance  to  the  ruins  is  quite  near  to  the 
railroad  station  and  to  the  new  and  living 
town.  After  going  into  a  little  tavern  for 
luncheon,  one  procures  guides,  and,  after 
paying  a  small  entrance  fee,  goes  into  a 
small  museum  where  can  be  seen  many 
of  the  victims  of  that  terrible  calamity. 
Pompeii  existed  before  Christ.  The  wall 
of  the  town  proves  of  even  greater  antiq- 
uity. Being  situated  near  the  sea,  on  an 
ancient  volcanic  eminence,  it  was  of  great 
importance,  being  near  the  navigable  river 
Sarnus.  The  sea  and  river  were  sepa- 
rated by  convulsions.  In  63  B.C.  a  great 
earthquake  destroyed  part  of  the  town, 
which  was  then  rebuilt  in  much  greater 
splendor,  and  w^hat  one  sees  now  proves 
that  the  ancients  were  finer  artists  than 
15 


SDiat^  of  !3p^  Curopran  ^np,  1900 

any  living  in  this  age.  The  magnificence 
of  their  paintings  and  inlaid  marbles,  their 
monuments  and  their  beautiful  statues,  is 
astonishing.  Oh,  the  beauty  of  it  all! 
Their  rooms  still  show  the  beautiful  mo- 
saic flooring;  their  walls  covered  with 
paintings  of  divine  maidens  in  picturesque 
poses  with  lutes  or  water-jugs.  It  is  mar- 
vellous to  think  that  all  this  art  splendor 
could  remain  buried  for  ages,  and  then  only 
be  discovered  by  chance  by  well-diggers 
when  looking  for  water.  We  have  seen  one 
room,  with  the  walls  gorgeously  painted, 
which  had  been  discovered  only  three  years 
ago.  Many  of  the  valuables  and  fine 
statues  have  been  removed  to  the  museum 
at  Naples  by  the  authorities,  who  feared 
their  destruction  by  the  elements.  The  en- 
tire city  of  Pompeii  is  naturally  roofless — no 
doors,  no  windows,  no  domes  left,  only  side 
walls  and  marble  pillars  still  standing,  ex- 
cepting where  the  authorities  have  covered 
some  of  the  most  valuable  paintings  to  pre- 
serve them ;  for  these  Neapolitans  are  very 
i6 


SDtai:^  of  ^^  European  tCrip^  1900 

proud  of  these  antiquities.  At  the  Httle  mu- 
seum near  the  entrance  of  the  dead  city,  one 
sees  wonderful  sights.  The  human  beings 
are  all  under  glass  covering.  It  seems  as 
though  one  could  still  see  their  agony  by 
the  manner  of  their  position  and  by  the 
cramping  of  their  limbs  and  the  death 
struggle  depicted  upon  their  faces,  with 
only  a  thin  veil  of  lava  covering  them  in 
the  natural  position  in  which  they  were 
found.  The  most  noticeable  are  a  very 
young  woman,  with  a  golden  chain  upon 
her  neck;  a  mother  and  daughter  closely 
coiled  together  asleep;  a  young  woman, 
soon  to  become  a  mother,  apparently  strug- 
gling for  life.  Many  animals  are  preserved 
here — donkeys,  dogs,  and  all  manner  of 
house  animals.  This  dead  city,  with  its 
many  streets,  cannot  be  traversed  in  a  short 
time  by  those  who  are  not  good  pedestrians, 
as  it  is  up-hill  through  a  grove.  So  those 
who  wish  to  employ  the  guides  with  chairs 
can  avail  themselves  of  this  comfort.  Two 
men  carry  one  person.  Here  Emma  and  I 
17 


SDiarf  of  £p^  European  Xl^vip^  1900 

were  carried  upward  through  the  narrow 
streets  until  we  reached  some  of  the  places 
of  importance;  then  we  started  to  walk. 
The  first  place  of  note  we  visited  was  the 
Forum.  Many  of  the  streets  of  Pompeii 
are  still  named,  such  as  the  Street  of  Mer- 
cury, Street  of  Fortune,  etc.  Then  one 
goes  through  the  Herculaneum  gate  to  the 
Street  of  Tombs.  Pompeii  must  have  used 
few  vehicles,  and  these  must  have  been 
very  small,  as  the  streets,  in  most  in- 
stances, are  too  narrow  for  anything  but 
donkey-carts.  After  visiting  the  Forum, 
one  goes  to  the  Temple  of  Jupiter,  the  Ma- 
cellum,  a  hall  that  was  utilized  for  the  sale 
of  provisions,  etc.  All  the  walls  are  still 
decorated  with  different  kinds  of  edibles,  to 
show  what  the  place  was  used  for.  There 
are  steps  everywhere  leading  into  under- 
ground rooms  and  cells.  There  are  em- 
blems to  designate  what  each  house  that 
was  not  a  palace  was  utilized  for.  Men 
carrying  wine  jars  show  that  wine  was  here 

sold,  etc.    Near  the  Forum  is  the  great  The- 
i8 


SDiar^  of  !^^  CDuropean  Wtip^  1900 

atre  and  Temple  of  Isis.  The  Amphithe- 
atre had  a  space  for  twenty  thousand  spec- 
tators on  the  ground  floor  alone.  There  are 
hundreds  of  houses,  with  inscriptions  still 
on  them,  where  once  lived  great  orators, 
statesmen,  kings,  princes,  and  gladiators. 
Tombs  are  seen  in  great  number.  There 
are  no  signs  of  windows  having  been  built 
in  the  houses.  A  small  court  to  each  house 
is  found,  and  the  light  and  air  must  have 
come  from  these  and  the  domes.  It  is  easy 
to  distinguish  the  rooms  by  the  fine  paint- 
ings on  the  walls  still  standing,  such  as 
reclining  nude  figures  of  beautiful  maid- 
ens in  the  sleeping-rooms,  also  musical 
instruments  touched  by  beautiful  youths 
and  maidens.  It  is  almost  impossible  to 
describe  this  wonderful  dead  city.  One 
must  see  it  to  believe  it  all.  The  streets 
have  stone  pavings,  and  in  many  places 
beautiful  mosaic  floorings  are  still  pre- 
served in  all  their  lovely  colorings.  Many 
high  columns  of  marble  and  unbroken  walls 
are  still  standing.  In  leaving  the  dead  city 
19 


2Diar^  of  ^^  CBuropean  tKtipt  1900 

and  turning  into  the  new  and  living  town, 
one  breathes  a  prayer  that  these  people 
may  not  suffer  the  fate  of  those  who  lived 
so  near  to  them  ages  before ;  for  the  de- 
structive  old  Vesuvius  is  still  there. 

On  April  twenty-first  we  arrived  at 
Rome  and  stopped  at  Grand  Hotel  Quiri- 
nal.  Then  commenced  sight-seeing  in  ear- 
nest. 


Ill 

iOME,  the  Eternal  City,  the  cap- 
ital of  Italy,  contains  400,000 
inhabitants,  is  situated  on  the 
Tiber  River,  and  with  its  Corso 
diich  runs  a  mile  long,  and  its  sub- 
lime works  of  art  and  its  picturesque 
hills,  is  the  most  wonderful  city  in  the 
world,  for  here  surely  are  to  be  seen  the 
chief  monuments  of  antiquity. 

The  more  modern  (the  northern)  part  of 
the  city  seems  to  be  the  strangers'  quar- 
ters. We  first  visited  the  great  and  wonder- 
ful St.  Peter's,  the  building  of  which  was 
started  more  than  four  hundred  years  ago, 
and  is  still  unfinished.  The  church  is 
situated  on  a  semicircular  eminence,  and 
its  approach  looks  like  a  village.  Hun- 
dreds of  life-size  statues  are  on  the  outside 
rotunda.  Millions  of  dollars  have  been  ex- 
pended here  for  grandeur  that  the  Catholic 


H>iar^  of  ^^  CBuropean  tBtip,  1900 

world  has  paid  for.  The  Interior  is  marvel- 
lous, so  very  many  different  altars  and 
eac/i^  more  gorgeous  than  its  neighbor. 
Such  colossal  statues  of  all  saints,  as  well 
as  all  important  biblical  subjects !  The  one 
I  considered  the  most  wonderful  is  situated 
to  the  right  of  the  largest  altar,  and  is  "  the 
Madonna  and  Christ  Child."  I  have  been 
told  that  many  years  were  spent  in  seeking 
a  marble  that  had  a  roseate  coloring,  and 
having  at  last  obtained  this  it  was  used  in 
forming  the  face  of  the  Madonna  and  the 
face  and  toes  of  the  Christ  Child.  This 
pinkish  tint  gives  a  life-like  appearance 
and  is  wonderful.  This  is  the  only  statue 
having  such  a  roseate  coloring.  On  the 
day  of  our  visit  to  St.  Peter's,  we  received 
the  Pope's  benediction.  The  Pope  was 
carried  by  many  men  into  the  church.  He 
was  preceded  by  twenty-eight  chamber- 
lains, with  great  flourish  of  trumpets  and 
banners.  Thousands  of  people  suffered  the 
torture  of  standing  for  hours  in  a  dense 
crowd,   awaiting  his   Eminence,   the   silly 

22 


SDiar^  of  £p^  C^uropean  tE^rip,  1900 

writer  of  these  lines  amongst  the  number. 
Then  we  were  at  last  rewarded  by  seeing 
an  aged  little  man  standing  upon  a  high 
throne  chair,  with  the  fingers  of  his  right 
hand  extended  towards  the  populace,  as 
though  throwing  his  blessings  amongst 
them,  a  huge  emerald  ring  blazing  upon  his 
index  finger.  His  vestments  of  white  satin 
were  heavily  embroidered  in  gold ;  also  the 
small  white  satin  skull-cap  upon  his  rever- 
ential head.  Ten  thousand  pilgrims  came 
from  all  over  Europe  to  receive  this  bless- 
ing. Many  people  held  their  children  to- 
wards the  Pope,  also  all  kinds  of  articles, 
rosaries.  Bibles,  etc.,  for  the  benediction. 
The  Pope,  at  this  time  over  ninety  years 
old,  rarely  gives  these  public  benedictions, 
as  he  is  quite  feeble.  The  Pope  lives  at 
the  Vatican,  and  is  always  carried  through 
the  vast  corridors  from  his  apartments  into 
St.  Peter's  Church.  The  great  and  won- 
derful Vatican,  who  can  describe  it?  It 
is  the  largest  palace  in  the  world,  and  ad- 
joins St.  Peter's  Church.  The  Vatican  has 
23 


SDiar^  of  ^^  European  Wtip,  1900 

twenty  courts,  and  eleven  thousand  halls 
and  rooms.  Many  artists  make  their  stu- 
dios here,  copying  the  wonderful  pictures. 
I  saw  the  greatest  living  mosaic  painter  of 
the  world  painting  a  hundred-thousand- 
dollar  mosaic  for  the  Emperor  of  Russia. 
He  gave  me  his  autograph,  and  his  name 
is  Companiti  Musaicista,  Studio  Vatican. 
The  hall  that  made  the  greatest  impres- 
sion upon  me  is  where  "  The  Creation  "  is, 
painted  by  Raphael  and  one  corner  -of  the 
work  finished  by  Michael  Angelo.  "  The 
Creation  "  is  an  inspiration  that  can  never 
be  duplicated:  the  glory  and  holiness  of 
the  Lord  Almighty,  represented  sitting 
upon  a  great  heavenly  throne  surrounded 
by  a  wonderful  dark  nothingness;  then 
gradually  comes  Heaven,  and  farther  on 
earth  and  water;  then  living,  creeping 
things,  semi-darkness ;  then  a  burst  of  light ; 
then  Paradise  and  Adam;  then  it  seems 
as  though  the  Lord  just  wafted  Eve  into 
the  arms  of  Adam.  Cain,  Abel,  the  tree 
of  knowledge,  the  serpent,  the  throwing 
24 


SDiat^  of  £0^  CDuropean  W^xip,  1900 

out  from  Paradise,  the  killing  of  Abel,  the 
Deluge — in  fact,  the  entire  biblical  pano- 
rama is  represented  here  in  beautiful  life- 
like coloring.  There  are  so  many  of  these 
halls  with  wonderful  paintings — in  fact,  the 
Vatican  abounds  in  wonders  and  it  would 
take  months  to  see  it  all  thoroughly.  Even 
upon  entering,  one  is  surprised  at  the  pomp 
and  show.  The  soldiers  and  guards  are 
dressed  so  picturesquely:  long,  light-blue 
coats  with  red  collars,  knee-breeches,  yel- 
iow-and-black  striped  stockings,  red-and- 
gold  banded  hats,  shoes  with  huge  silver 
buckles,  an  immense  musket  carried  by 
these  tallest  of  men,  finishes  a  description 
of  the  singular  costumes  of  these  Swiss 
Guards,  which  were  originally  designed  by 
Michael  Angelo. 

After  visiting  the  Vatican,  one  starts  in 
to  see  some  of  the  many  other  wonders  of 
this  most  wonderful  city.  The  Burgo 
Norvo  is  situated  one  square  from  St.  Pe- 
ter's Church.  We  drove  daily  past  the  fa- 
mous tower  Dore  de  MelHsia,  where  Nero 
25 


-    s>iar^  of  ^^  European  ^rip,  1900 

fiddled  while  Rome  was  burning.  We  vis- 
ited the  great  St.  Paul's  Church.  It  is 
called  by  many  as  grand  as  St.  Peter's. 
We  also  saw  the  different  museums  and 
other  picture  galleries.  However,  to  see 
all  the  important  palaces  and  wonders  it 
would  indeed  take  many  months,  and  even 
a  few  years  to  do  all  intelligently.  There 
are  seven  bridges  over  the  Tiber,  and 
the  aqueducts  are  marvels  of  architecture. 
We  were  warned  by  some  of  our  fellow- 
passengers  who  lived  in  Rome  not  to 
drink  w^ater  while  sojourning  there,  but 
I  found  the  water  so  pure,  and  after  hear- 
ing how  the  water  was  brought  in  from 
the  Sabine  Mountains,  fifty-three  miles 
away,  I  had  no  further  fears  in  regard  to 
drinking  it. 

Wishing  to  see  the  least  favorable  part 
of  Rome,  we  drove  to  the  Ghetto,  which 
I  found  the  very  poorest  and  worst  of 
the  many  such  places  I  have  visited.  It 
lies  way  down  among  the  sand  dunes,  and 
one  junk-shop  seemed  close  up  to  its  neigh- 
26 


SDiar^  of  ^^  €ntopun  ^rip,  1900 

bor,  also  a  few  old-clothes  shops,  invariably 

guarded  by  some  very  old  woman.     One 

of  these  particularly  attracted  my  attention, 

as  she  seemed  a  veritable  Mrs.  Noah,  so 

old  and  bent  was  she.     She  had  one  child 

in  her  arms  and  a  number  clinging"  about 

h^r  skirts.     I  asked  the  driver  to  stop  and 

beckoned  her  to  come  to  the  wagon,  and 

asked  her  if  she  was  a  Yehuda  (Jewish). 

She  nearly  jumped  into  the   wagon,  and 

gave  me  a  Roman  fright,  shouting:   "It's 

Pasach  "  (Easter),  and  ran  away  to  bring  me 

some  matzos  (Easter  crackers).     It  was  like 

an   iron-pitted   plate,  so  black,  heavy,  and 

leady.     I  gave  her  some  coins,  and  then  she 

held    her  various   grandchildren   into   the 

carriage;  they  also  received  some  money. 

Then  she  resorted  to  a  regular  Italian  trick: 

she  took  from  her  pocket  a  small  whistle  and 

blew  it,  whereupon  about  ten  ragged  urchins 

came  scampering  from  I  know  not  where, 

but  all  surrounding  our  wagon  and  begging 

for  money.     We  gave  them  some  copper 

coins,   but   seeing  the   mob   increase,  my 
27 


mm^  of  £p^  (II;uvopean  XE^tip^  1900 

children  begged  me  to  desist  and  drive  on, 
as  we  would  surely  get  into  trouble,  and  it 
was  quite  a  job  to  rid  ourselves  of  these 
poor  creatures,  as  they  clung  to  the  wagon 
until  the  driver  threatened  them  with  the 
whip.  These  people  appeared  so  poor  and 
unfortunate  it  gave  one  a  heartache  to  just 
look  at  them. 

Now  comes  the  Pantheon  to  be  seen.  It 
is  one  of  the  best-preserved  old  buildings, 
built  in  the  year  27  B.C.  Great  excavations 
are  now  in  progress,  revealing  Roman  works 
and  buildings,  etc.  Then  we  visited  the 
vast  Colosseum,  Rome's  greatest  marvel. 
It  was  founded  by  Vespasian  and  finished 
by  Titus,  Jewish  captives  completing  the 
work  in  a.d.  80.  Ten  thousand  men  and  five 
thousand  beasts  were  slain  at  its  inaugura- 
tion. Wonderful  fights  of  gladiators  were 
then  witnessed.  In  the  fourteenth  and  fif- 
teenth centuries  its  fine  masonry  was  pil- 
laged to  build  wonderful  palaces.  One  can 
still  see  where  the  bronze  and  steel  was  dug 
out  and  stolen,  and  of  this  material  the 
28 


SDiar^  of  ^^  (I];uropran  tETrip^  1900 

nobles  made  use  to  fashion  their  homes  and 
war  implements.  The  Colosseum  is  156 
feet  high,  with  arena  279  by  174  feet,  and 
one  feels  a  sorrow  to  see  it  thus  partly  de- 
molished. ^The  Colonna  Palace,  the  Villa 
Borghese  Medici,  Raphael's  villa,  where  one 
sees  Canova's  painting  of  Pauline  Bona- 
parte and  many  other  wonderful  pictures, 
also  interest  one  immensely.  We  went 
through  the  Quirinal  Palace,  the  former 
home  of  the  Pope,  now  occupied  by  King 
Humbert  and  Queen  Margharita.  It  is  all 
frescoed  by  Raphael.  The  apartments 
of  Napoleon  are  still  in  fine  condition. 
Rome  is  great  and  wonderful,  and  I  would 
take  great  delight  in  seeing  it  again  and 
the  beautiful  country  surrounding  Rome. 
We  also  saw  Tivoli,  founded  five  centuries 
before  Rome.  It  is  a  primitive-looking 
country,  where  many  paper  mills  are  in 
operation  in  very  primitive  style.  After 
seeing  so  very  much,  the  desire  came  to 
me  to  go  again  to  the  Forum,  and  stand 

where  Mark  Antony  delivered  his  famous 
29 


2r>iar^  of  £ia^  European  ^rtp,  1900 

funeral  oration,  before  saying  farewell  to 
the  Holy  City  of  Rome. 

After  leaving  Rome  I  felt  that  nothing 
very  great  could  be  found  elsewhere,  yet 
many  beautiful  scenes  and  places  came  to 
our  vision.  From  Rome  we  went,  on  May 
fifth,  to  the  beautiful  city  of  Florence,  situ- 
ated on  the  lovely  river  Arno.  We  saw 
in  the  Palace  Pitti  many  beautiful  pictures 
painted  by  Murillo,  Raphael,  and  Michael 
Angelo,  as  well  as  Titian's  beautiful  works; 
all  wonderful,  and  things  one  never  can  see 
in  America.  Florence  is  indeed  a  lovely 
city,  and  a  city  of  flowers  and  fine  art.  We 
spent  some  happy  days  here  among  art  and 
artists,  and  visited  Santa  Cruz  Pantheon, 
the  best  museum  of  the  fourteenth  century. 
Michael  Angelo  is  buried  here ;  also  Ros- 
sini, Machiavelli,  and  Amerigo  Vespucci, 
all  in  wonderful  sepulchres. 

From  Florence  we  travelled  to  Milan, 
where  my  son-in-law  met  his  dear  friend  of 
years'  standing,  the  Count  Salis,  a  very  in- 
teresting old  nobleman  who,  although  an 
30 


Wm^  of  ^p  (I];uropean  XH^tip^  1900 

Italian  by  birth,  is,  as  well,  a  German  by 
education,  and  to  the  dear  old  Count  we 
are  greatly  indebted  for  many  enjoyable 
days  in  Milan,  which  we  visited  three  times. 
We  enjoyed  tile  Italian  lakes  greatly.  Leav- 
ing Milan  we  went  to  Lake  Como,  Caden- 
abia  Bellagia  and  Menagia,  where  one  gets 
a  grand  view  of  the  Swiss  Alps. 

The  town  of  Como  is  a  pretty  place  and 
has  many  silk  factories.  Here,  right  at  the 
edge  of  the  beautiful  lake,  we  bought  some 
lovely  silk  couch-covers  and  souvenirs. 
One  sees  so  many  lovely  places  here,  such 
as  Verona — the  home  and  birthplace  of 
Shakespeare's  lovely  heroine  in  his  play  of 
"Romeo  and  Juliet" — where  the  home  of 
Juliet  is  still  pointed  out.  Here,  at  the  cor- 
ner of  Lake  Lecco  and  Lake  Como,  we 
visited  the  Villa  Serbolini,  where  one  hears 
the  legend  of  the  Countess  Serbolini,  who 
threw  her  lover  into  a  cistern  that  emptied 
into  the  lake,  and  only  after  her  death  was 
this  tragedy  discovered.  At  Cadenabia  we 
saw  the  Duchess  of  Sachsen  Meinigen  take 
31 


a>iai:^  of  ^^  Curopean  ^rip,  1900 

a  gondola  ride  with  her  ladies-in-waiting. 
Her  palace  is  just  at  the  lake  side.  Her 
gondola,  as  well  as  all  her  attendants, 
were  decorated  in  white  and  green  colors. 
This  unique  livery  looked  most  charming 
upon  the  lovely  Italian  lake.  Now,  again, 
we  returned  to  Milan,  and  from  thence  we 
went  to  Genoa,  where  we  saw  all  things  of 
interest,  the  most  important  being  their 
wonderful  Campo  Santo.  No  home  for  the 
departed  can  compare  with  this  home  of 
the  dead.  Entire  histories  are  worked  into 
the  wonderful  monuments  and  tombs. 
Most  pathetic  pictures  in  marble  are  seen 
here — so  life-like.  Parents  stretching  out 
arms  towards  their  children,  husbands  and 
wives  bidding  each  other  farewell.  Their 
homes  are  pictured  in  marble  of  the  most 
beautiful  workmanship.  Genoa  is  a  fine 
seaport,  but  one  is  easily  satisfied  to  go 
back  to  Milan,  as  we  soon  did. 

On  May  fifth  we  went  to  Nice. 

It  being  past  the  season  of  gaiety  and 
floral  festivals,  it  seemed  a  dull  place,  with 
32 


SDiarp  of  {ipr  ([I;uropean  tE^ript  1900 

dozens  of  empty  hotels  and  boarding- 
houses.  It  is  a  nice  little  town,  however,  and 
in  its  season  very  gay.  We  had  now  a  jol- 
lier visit  in  storg  for  our  party,  as  we  went 
to  Monte  Carlo,  which  is  situated  on  a  most 
picturesque  eminence.  Here  we  found  a 
number  of  Americans,  some  of  our  friends 
amongst  them,  which  made  it  very  pleas- 
ant. Our  curiosity  naturally  led  us  first 
to  the  Casino,  the  great  gaming-place  of 
Monte  Carlo.  We  watched  with  great  in- 
terest the  raking-in  of  money  by  the  game- 
sters, as  well  as  looking  upon  the  rakes. 
The  bankers  use  small  rakes  to  gather  in 
the  coin  upon  the  long  tables.  It  is  in- 
teresting to  watch  the  faces  of  the  lucky 
as  well  as  the  unlucky  players.  Many  of 
these  are  women,  and  some  very  flashy, 
bejewelled  ones  at  that.  Naturally,  we 
wanted  to  feel  how  it  is  to  stake  money  at  the 
greatest  gambling-place  in  the  world.  So 
we  gave  them  some  of  our  good  American 
dollars.  Before  being  admitted  into  the 
gambling-room,  one  has  to  go  to  the  office 
33 


SDiar^  of  ^^  (European  W^tip,  1900 

and  have  his  name,  age,  and  place  of  resi- 
dence registered,  as  many  poor  victims, 
after  losing  their  last  dollars,  from  sheer 
desperation  commit  suicide,  and  the  au- 
thorities do  not  wish  to  have  these  poor 
people  upon  their  hands,  and  at  once  can 
communicate  with  the  relatives,  in  order  to 
rid  themselves  of  all  trouble. 

Now,  for  the  third  time,  we  went  to  Milan 
and  dear  old  Count  Salis,  and  after  a  few 
days  we  started  for  beautiful  Venice,  with 
its  elegant  marble  palaces  and  its  wonder- 
ful street-canals,  and  its  queer,  funny  men, 
called  hookers,  who  start  the  lovely  gon- 
dolas with  their  long  iron  hooks.  Omni- 
bus-boats are  used  here  just  as  omnibuses 
are  used  in  America.  These  boat  'busses 
are  patronized  principally  by  the  w^orking 
people  to  convey  them  to  their  work  or 
places  of  business.  Venice  has  very  many 
lace  and  silk  manufacturies.  One  goes  to 
see  the  wonderful  St.  Mark's  Place,  where 
for  a  thousand  years  thousands  of  pigeons 
have  been  kept  by  the  municipality.     They 

34 


SDiar^  of  ^^  (I];uropean  tE^rip^  1900 

are  fed  daily  and  cared  for  on  this  public 
square,  where  old  people  as  well  as  children 
stand  about  and  sell  little  packages  of  corn 
for  a  few  centissimos,  and  nearly  all  travel- 
lers avail  themselves  of  this  pleasure  to  feed 
the  pigeons.  When  holding  a  few  kernels 
of  corn  in  the  hand  many  flock  about  one 
and  eat  from  the  hand,  and  others  perch 
upon  one's  shoulder  and  about  one's  person, 
awaiting  their  turn  to  receive  a  few  kernels. 
So  tame  are  these  little  creatures  that  it  is 
perfectly  delightful  to  watch  them. 

At  Venice  we  visited  the  palace  of  the 
Doges,  the  great  galleries  and  stone  prisons 
of  torture.  We  walked  over  the  famous 
"  Bridge  of  Sighs,"  and  also  rode  in  a  gon- 
dola under  it,  and  peered  into  the  canal, 
almost  thinking  we  could  see  the  poor  vic- 
tims of  ages  gone  by  who  were  thrown  into 
these  waters  from  their  stone  prison  above. 


35 


IV 

ROM  Venice  we  started,  bidding 
farewell  to  beautiful  Italy  with 
many  regrets,  and  wishing  at 
some  future  day  to  have  the 
great  pleasure  of  revisiting  that 
sunny  clime  with  all  its  marvellous 
antiquities,  its  beautiful  art  as  well  as  its 
creeping  horrors  and  places  of  torture  of 
the  dark  ages.  Every  new  place  while  trav- 
elling is  fraught  with  interest  and  pleasure, 
so,  while  regretting  what  is  left  behind,  it  is 
but  natural  to  look  for  the  beacon-light 
ahead  with  renewed  interest  and  expecta- 
tion, our  destination  being  Austria,  where 
we  could  expect  to  enjoy  the  language  and 
spend  gulden  in  place  of  lires,  and  exchange 
the  sights  of  the  holy  cities  for  the  more 
lively  and  naughty  ones,  for  so  I  compare 
Vienna  to  Rome.  After  leaving  Venice  we 
started  for  the  little  village  of  Villach,  not 
37 


Diar^  of  ^^  European  XBtip,  1900 

wishing  to  travel  far  into  the  night  and 
thereby  lose  the  view  of  the  Semerich 
Mountains,  which  are  well  worth  going  slow 
for  and  breaking  our  journey  in  two.  Be- 
sides the  sight  of  the  beautiful  snow-capped 
mountains,  we  enjoyed  a  night  of  primitive 
experience  by  stopping  at  a  little  wayside 
inn  called  Hotel  Mosser  Willach,  the  best 
the  town  afforded,  where  my  precious 
granddaughter  made  me  feel  like  a  child 
again  by  tumbling  me  under  the  high  feath- 
er-beds, and  asking  me  to  listen  to  the  tread 
of  the  wooden  shoes ;  and,  when  our  bit  of 
candle  burnt  low,  began  asking  me  if  I  heard 
the  ghosts  walking  at  our  chamber  door  and 
if  I  would  please  get  up  and  pick  up  the  big 
feather  bed  that  had  fallen  near  the  door, 
as  she  had  lost  her  covering,  which,  by  the 
way,  the  little  rascal  had  thrown  there  to 
test  my  courage. 

However,  the   beautiful   morning  came 
none  too  soon,  and  when  we  walked  into 
the  well-scrubbed  and  sanded  bar  and  din- 
ing-room combined,  of   the  inn,  we  were 
38 


SDiat^  of  £p^  European  tE^rip,  1900 

very  well  rewarded  by  getting  such  a  break- 
fast of  home-cured  shinken  (ham),  new-laid 
eggs  and  pancakes,  that  we  forgot  all  about 
the  night  undej^  feathers,  or  the  morning 
rub  with  coarse  sack  towelling,  etc. 

The  next  night  we  were  on  "  easy  street," 
for  we  were  housed  at  the  famous  Hotel 
Bristol,  the  resort  of  many  of  the  nobility, 
where  wooden  shoes  and  feather  covering 
are  unknown.  Vienna  is  situated  on  the 
famous  blue  Danube.  Although  Vienna 
was  once  a  Celtic  village  and  later  a  Ro- 
man fort,  it  is  to-day  a  wonderful  pleasure- 
loving  city,  with  its  beautiful  Prater,  its 
immense  forest  park,  where  all  the  fashion- 
able world  goes  to  dine  and  listen  to  the 
wonderful  concerts  given  by  the  Cappellen 
band.  Here  people  go  to  sup  and  dine  and 
almost  forget  home  life  during  the  summer 
months,  as  they  live  almost  entirely  in  the 
open  air,  and  in  fact  that  is  the  case  nearly 
all  over  Germany,  as  well  as  in  the  greater 
part  of  Europe,  where  the  streets  are  much 
used  as  restaurants.  A  beautiful  drive 
39 


SDiar^  of  £p^  European  ^rip,  1900 

from  Vienna  brings  one  to  the  lovely  subur- 
ban spot  Schonbrun,  the  imperial  residence. 
Here  Napoleon  the  Great  had  his  residence 
and  his  headquarters,  and  here  his  son  died 
in  the  year  1832.  Now  we  turn  back  to 
Vienna  and  can  well  see  how  proud  the 
Austrians  can  be  of  their  capital.  Vienna 
has  one  million  four  hundred  thousand  in- 
habitants. It  is  a  great  art  centre  and  a 
most  wonderful  city.  The  bronzes  are  be- 
coming each  year  more  favored,  also  the 
manufacture  of  beautiful  leather  goods  is 
greatly  adding  to  their  commerce.  One 
cannot  forget,  while  thinking  of  the  many 
good  things  on  earth,  that  the  Vienna  con- 
fections (Wiener  Backwerk)  are  world  fa- 
mous, and  Vienna  should  really  be  termed 
the  father  of  all  bakeries,  for  nowhere  does 
one  find  quite  such  good  things  in  that  line 
as  in  the  beautiful  city  on  the  blue  Danube, 
which,  by  the  way,  is  not  blue  at  all,  but 
rather  a  muddy-looking  gray-blue,  but  after 
all  a  noble  stream. 


40 


V 

N  May  the  fifth  we  arrived  at  the 
fine  German  city  of  Munich,  the 
great  capital  of  Bavaria,  with  its 
three  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  It  is  situated  on 
the  River  Isar.  We  visited  the  Pitti 
Palace,  which  is  in  imitation  of  the  Pitti 
Palace  in  Florence,  and  after  having  seen 
the  original  palace  one  is  not  quite  so  much 
enthused  to  see  an  imitation.  There  are  a 
number  of  beautiful  things  to  be  seen  in  Mu- 
nich, such  as  the  gallery  of  famous  beautiful 
women  (Schoenheits  Gallerie)  and  many 
places  of  interest,  not  forgetting  the  won- 
derful beer  stuben,  for  nowhere  in  Germany 
does  one  find  such  pure  and  excellent  beer 
as  in  Munich ;  even  their  babies  seem  to 
thrive  on  beer,  for  the  Mianchner  kindle 
are  said  to  be  fattened  on  beer.  After  a 
week's  stay  in  the  famous  beer-drinking 
41 


SDiar^  of  ^v  €ntoptmx  ^tip,  1900 

atmosphere,  we  started  for  the  picturesque 
little  village  of  Ober-Ammergau,  which 
nestles  at  the  foot  of  the  Bavarian  High- 
lands. 

A  railway  runs  along  the  shores  of  the 
beautiful  Lake  of  Starnberg,  the  same  in 
which  the  young  King  Ludwig  the  Second 
lost  his  life.  While  riding  along,  one  sees 
the  mountain  range  of  the  Alps.  The  ordi- 
nary population  is  about  fourteen  hundred 
inhabitants,  but  in  1890  more  than  two  hun- 
dred thousand  people  visited  this  quaint  lit- 
tle village,  and  in  1900  many  more  visitors 
were  there.  All  came  to  see  the  famous 
Passion-Play  produced,  the  same  being 
played  only  once  in  ten  years,  and  played 
only  by  the  villagers  themselves.  Men, 
women,  and  children  are  here  trained  for 
ten  years,  all  looking  forward  to  this  great 
performance  which  brings  the  important 
revenue  of  the  lives  of  these  peasants,  who 
have  vowed  to  play,  and  dedicate  themselves 
religiously  once  in  ten  years  to  this  mam- 
moth enterprise.  It  is  remarkable,^upon  en- 
42 


2r>iar^  of  ^^  European  tE^rip,  1900 

tering  the  village,  to  see  men  and  boys  going 
about  with  their  hair  hanging  below  their 
shoulders,  and  invariably  blond  hair,  all 
left  to  grow,  in  i^rder  to  personate  properly 
the  different  characters  in  the  Passion-Play. 
The  play  is  indeed  a  marvel.  Men,  women, 
and  children,  to  the  number  of  seven  hun- 
dred and  more,  take  part,  and  as  many  as 
seven  hundred  at  one  time  enter  upon  the 
stage;  this  being  the  scene  where  Christ 
enters  Jerusalem  riding  upon  a  donkey, 
and  the  multitude  cheering  and  marching 
with  him.  The  auditorium  is  under  cover 
and  contains  seats  for  four  thousand  peo- 
ple. The  stage,  however,  is  left  open,  and 
gives  this  solemn  drama  a  great  natural- 
ness. The  hundreds  of  women  who  come 
upon  the  stage  are  all  ordinary  peasant- 
women  ;  some  few  fine-looking,  but  mostly 
all  coarse-looking  rustics  with  sunburnt 
arms  and  necks,  and  quite  clumsy,  showing 
large  hands  and  feet,  but  possessing  good 
voices.  The  Passion-Play  begins  at  8 
o'clock  in  the  morning  and,  excepting  an 
43 


SDiar^  of  ®^  Cutopean  ®rip^  1900 

intermission  for  the  noon-meal  hour,  lasts 
until  six  in  the  evening".  It  is  a  realistic 
performance,  particularly  the  Lord's  Sup- 
per and  the  Crucifixion,  which  create  quite 
a  feeling.  The  accommodations  are  very 
primitive,  and  tourists  generally  leave  the 
little  mountain  village  the  morning  after 
the  play,  to  make  room  for  the  next 
comers.  From  Ober-Ammergau  we  re- 
turned to  Munich,  and  then  we  started  for 
the  quaint  old  city  of  Nuremberg.  It  has 
one  hundred  and  forty  thousand  inhabi- 
tants, many  of  these  living  in  old  mediaeval 
houses,  with  high  towers  and  fine,  ancient- 
looking  windows.  One  of  its  important 
sights  to  see  is  the  old  Burg,  the  first  castle 
built  in  Nuremberg,  and  built  on  a  rock 
that  formed  a  place  of  refuge  for  its  first 
knights  and  warriors.  Here  exists  the 
Tiefer  Brunnen  (the  deep  well),  where  the 
sight-seeing  traveller  sees  a  bucket  let  down 
hundreds  of  feet,  with  a  lighted  candle  in- 
side the  bucket  to  show  the  real  depth  of 
the  well.     Here  foreigners  are  permitted  to 

44 


H>iar^  of  ^^  CButopean  ^rip^  1900 

buy  curios  fashioned  out  of  pewter,  sup- 
posedly during  the  seventeenth  century. 
It  nearly  became  mv  fate  to  be  hoaxed,  also. 
Admiring  a  fine  pewter  jug,  engraved  with 
the  name  and  station  Hans  Shaunberger, 
burgermeister  of  Nuremberg  two  hundred 
and  fifty  years  previous,  I  naturally  wanted 
to  buy  such  an  antique  jug  for  my  collec- 
tion. I  was  wondering  how  the  Nurem- 
bergers  could  possess  so  little  enthusiasm 
as  to  let  such  an  heirloom,  that  once  graced 
the  home  of  their  beloved  burgermeister, 
be  carried  away  by  Americans.  My  suspi- 
cions being  aroused,  I  asked  the  woman 
who  has  charge  of  the  antiquities  if  she 
could  not  get  me  a  mate  of  the  jug,  as  I 
liked  such  ornaments  in  pairs,  and  w^ould 
like  to  buy  a  second  one  to  match.  She 
said :  "  Oh !  The  Americans  all  admire  this 
pattern,  it  is  so  beautiful ;  that  is  why  we 
sell  this  kind  of  jug  so  often,  and  it  will  be 
some  days  before  I  can  procure  another 
one."  I  enjoyed  a  good  laugh  and  told  my 
son-in-law  that  I  thought  I  would  let  the 
45 


2Diar^  of  £0^  European  ^rip^  1900 

Nurembergers  keep  their  heirlooms  or  let 
some  other  foolish  American  be  made 
happy  by  thinking  that  he  had  added  a 
genuine  art  piece  to  his  curio  cabinet,  and 
again  I  mentally  added:  ''Where  igno- 
rance is  bliss,  it's  folly  to  be  wise." 

Nuremberg  is  noted  for  its  various  toy 
factories,  and  seems  the  great  centre  of  trade 
between  north  and  south  Germany.  The 
great  wall  that  encircles  this  romantic  town 
has  seventy-five  towers  of  masonry,  and 
its  moat,  that  has  now  run  dry,  has  a  stone 
bulkhead  and  runs  through  a  great  part  of 
this  picturesque  city.  Nuremberg  has  many 
beautiful  public  monuments,  such  as  the 
monument  of  Hans  Sachs,  the  cobbler 
poet;  the  little  Goose  Man,  etc.  Near  the 
beautiful  Frauen  Kirche  stands  the  foun- 
tain of  virtue,  with  the  many  female  forms 
spouting  water  constantly.  After  a  lovely 
visit  in  Nuremberg  and  also  the  adjacent 
town  of  Fiirth,  where  we  left  a  goodly 
amount  of  American  money,  buying  ivories 
for  which  this  little  city  is  noted,  we  started 
46 


sr>tar^  of  ^^  (Buropean  tZTrip,  1900 

for  a  visit  to  my  son-in-law's  old  boyhood 
home,  the  little  village  of  Wambach.  From 
there  we  travelled  to  Frankfort-on-the- 
Main.  This  was  a  free  city  from  1356  to 
1866,  when  Prussia  annexed  it.  Frankfort 
is  beautiful,  and  more  like  an  American 
than  a  German  city.  It  contains  great 
wealth,  as  so  many  millionaires  live  here 
in  palaces.  We  visited  the  house  where 
the  great  poet  Goethe  w^as  born,  and  where 
he  wrote  his  wonderful  "  Werther."  This 
house  is  now  the  city's  property  and  is 
kept  in  splendid  condition  for  the  benefit 
of  visitors.  The  Palm  Garden  is  the  pride 
of  the  Frankforters.  It  is  a  park  garden 
where  the  residents  spend  much  of  their 
time.  Beautiful  illuminations  and  fine 
concerts  induce  people  to  sit  there  after- 
noons and  also  to  take  evening  meals  there. 
It  impressed  me  greatly  that  home  life  in 
Germany  during  the  summer  months  was 
an  indifferent  sort  of  life,  as  the  hospitality 
of  the  Germans  in  many  cities  means  sim- 
ply an  invitation  to  meet  them  at  such-and- 
47 


SE>tat^  of  ^^  Curopran  ^xip,  1900 

such  a  garden  and  sup  with  them,  and  very 
often  after  the  invitation  has  been  accepted 
and  one  is  told  that  all  the  members  of  their 
families,  and  even  some  good  friends  are 
going  to  meet  them,  the  hospitable  Teuton 
will  not  quarrel  with  his  American  friends 
if  they  choose  to  pay  the  bills,  but  will  sim- 
ply smile,  order  more  beer,  and  say :  "  Oh ! 
you  Americans  are  so  liberal." 

In  Frankfort  there  is  really  very  much 
to  see.  The  Zoological  Garden  is  beautiful. 
We  visited  the  Ghetto,  driving  through  the 
Yudengasse  where  the  Rothschild  family 
originated.  We  saw  the  old  Stamm  house, 
where  the  greatest  financiers  of  the  world 
first  saw  the  light  of  day ;  also  the  old  syna- 
gogue. In  these  quarters  the  persecuted 
Jews  lived  from  1462  until  1806.  Here  the 
gates  closed  and  were  chained  in  the  even- 
ing and  no  Jew  was  permitted  outside. 
The  Zeil  is  the  finest  street  in  Frankfort. 
They  have  a  fine  opera-house  and  many 
important  buildings.  After  enjoying  a 
pleasant  time  and  visiting  our  American 
48 


miut^  of  ^^  European  XE^tip,  1900 

friends,  Mrs.  Frank  L.  and  Mrs.  John  L., 
who  both  Hve  in  palaces,  we  started  for  the 
third  time  for  Nuremberg  and  from  there 
we  started,  June  twenty-first,  for  the  won- 
derful Kurplatz  Carlsbad. 


49 


VI 

ARLSBAD  has  indeed  no  equal 
as  a  watering-place.  Its  numer- 
ous mineral  springs  are  world- 
famous  and  health  -  restoring. 
Sixty  thousand  guests  are  sup- 
posed to  visit  this  little  city  annu- 
ally. Here  one  meets  kings,  queens, 
princes,  and  nobles  of  both  high  and  low 
degree,  all  seeking  lost  health  like  other 
poor  mortals.  The  waters  are  considered 
a  panacea  for  liver,  kidney,  and  most  all 
stomach  complaints.  The  Moor  baths  are 
considered  so  beneficial  for  rheumatics  and 
kindred  ailments.  Nowhere  does  one  see 
more  pomp  and  display  of  jewel-bedecked 
and  finely-clad  humanity  than  at  Carlsbad, 
and  yet  nowhere  does  one  live  so  simply. 
People  go  early  in  the  morning  for  their 
cure,  walking  to  the  spring  designated  by 
their  physician  with  cup  in  hand,  or  at- 
51 


SDtar^  of  05^  Cuvopran  W^tip,  1900 

tached  to  a  leather  strap  generally  worn 
around  the  shoulder.  One  sees  a  very  or- 
derly crowd  awaiting  in  line  their  turn  to 
be  served  with  the  healing  fluid.  After 
drinking,  people  walk  up  and  down  the 
colonnade  until  the  amount  of  water  one  is 
to  drink  is  finished.  Then  one  goes  to 
one  of  the  numerous  bake-shops  and  selects 
some  of  the  small  rolls  of  bread  according 
to  fancy,  or  as  has  been  ordered  by  one's 
physician.  These  rolls  are  invariably  put 
into  a  pink  paper  bag,  and  then  one  also 
buys  a  portion  of  boiled  ham  (shinken),  ac- 
cording to  the  doctor's  instructions.  With 
these,  people  start  to  walk  to  the  many 
beautiful  gardens  or  cafes  situated  from 
half  a  mile  to  three  or  more  miles  distant. 
Here  one  is  served  by  fine-looking  young 
women  with  coffee  or  tea,  but  always  in  the 
open  air.  There  are  no  street-cars  in  Carls- 
bad, so  walking  is  a  necessity,  and  the  park- 
like roadway  helps  one  to  enjoy  the  exercise, 
and  whets  one's  appetite.  Carlsbad  is  in- 
deed a  very  gay  place  and  amusements  of 
52 


2Diar^  of  ^^  (l];uropean  ^rip^  1900 

various  kinds  are  to  be  found  there.  Con- 
certs twice  during  the  day  and  in  the  eve- 
ning, at  which  several  hundred  musicians 
play  at  once,  most  beautifully,  in  the  open 
air.  Then  one  can  go  to  the  races,  the  the- 
atre, besides  enjoying  lovely  mountain  and 
valley  drives,  always  landing  in  the  after- 
noon at  some  famous  garden  for  coffee.  It 
is  indeed  an  ideal  life.  Then  the  numerous 
small  shops  are  very  enticing  and  people  of 
all  nationalities  are  seen  shopping;  from 
stylishly  dressed  dames  from  the  fashion 
centres  of  Europe  to  the  queer-looking 
Polish  Israelites  from  all  parts  of  Russia  as 
well.  Many  of  these  are  a  wonder  to  look 
at,  with  their  black  corkscrew  curls  at  either 
side  of  the  face,  and  golden  ear-  and  finger- 
rings,  and  long  frock  coats,  for  I  do  not 
want  to  forget  that  these  curly  dudes  are 
men,  in  spite  of  their  curls  and  jewels.  A 
legend  tells  us  that  Charles  the  Second  dis- 
covered the  spot  now  called  after  him  Carls- 
bad. While  he  was  out  hunting  he  became 
separated  from  his  companions  in  riding 
53 


2r>iar^  of  ^^  CDuropcan  Wnp^  1900 

through  the  forest  after  a  stag  which  was 
fleeing  from  him  and  he  was  pursuing. 
He  saw  the  deer  disappear,  then  appear 
and  jump  from  a  high  rock.  This  same 
rock  is  now  famous  and  called  the  "  Hir- 
shen  Sprung"  (''Stag's  Leap").  Such  an 
amount  of  steam  was  arising  from  the  place 
that  Charles  left  his  steed  and  started  to 
look  for  the  cause,  as  well  as  for  his  fleeing 
deer.  When  descending  the  declivity, 
what  was  his  surprise  to  see  the  deer  float- 
ing in  a  pool  ot  hot  water;  the  poor  deer, 
however,  was  completely  cooked,  having 
jumped  into  what  is  now  known  as  the 
greatest  health-giving  and  most  impor- 
tant spring,  the  "  Sprudel."  Carlsbad  has 
lovely  mountain  passes  where  those  who 
are  unable  to  walk  go  up  in  pony  car- 
riages or  on  donkeys.  There  are  vari- 
ous fine  hotels  here,  the  most  famous  be- 
ing run  by  the  brothers  Pupp,  who  own 
a  great  part  of  this  town.  The  Hotel  Sa- 
voy is  also  very  fine  and  has  an  oriental  air 
about  it,  service  and  all.  One  leaves  Carls- 
54 


SDiar^  of  ^^  Cutopean  ^rip,  1900 

bad  with  the  feeHng  of  having  been  greatly 
benefited  by  its  waters,  and  many  think 
that  in  order  to  keep  well  they  must  return 
there  every  year  or  two.  We  left  Carlsbad 
with  some  dear  friends  for  the  lovely  little 
Kur  place,  called  Shandau,  on  the  River 
Elba,  where  we  visited  the  beautiful  moun- 
tain spots,  the  Bastai,  the  Brant,  etc. 
Then  we  started  for  the  great  city  of  Ber- 
lin, the  capital  of  Prussia  and  of  Germany, 
which  contains  over  one  million  and  a  half 
inhabitants,  and  is  situated  on  the  Spree, 
a  fine  river,  and  a  fine  city  to  go  on  a  spree 
for  those  so  inclined.  The  finest  part  of 
the  city  is  Unter  den  Linden,  a  very  wide 
avenue  over  one  mile  long,  and  lined  on 
either  side  with  linden  trees.  There  are 
a  number  of  palaces  on  this  avenue,  also 
a  great  number  of  fine  statues  and  fine 
stores  and  elegant  hotels.  With  its  great 
population,  an  endless  stream  of  people 
seem  to  be  rushing  and  going  at  all  hours. 
From  Berlin  we  went  to  Potsdam,  the  lit- 
tle town  with  its  military  air.  It  is  situated 
55 


2Diar^  of  9^^  dEuroptan  ^rip,  1900 

sixteen  miles  from  Berlin.  The  lakes  of 
the  Havel  are  grand.  At  Potsdam  one  sees 
the  San  Souci  palace,  built  by  Frederick 
the  Great,  the  royal  palace  built  in  1660, 
and  the  new  palace  built  in  1750,  a  most 
wonderful  building  containing  a  marble 
salon,  with  its  walls  and  ceiling  made  into 
most  beautiful  designs  from  minerals  and 
shells  formed  into  all  kinds  of  marine  ani- 
mals and  coral-beds.  Potsdam  has  fifty 
thousand  inhabitants.  The  little  city  is 
always  very  gay,  as  the  present  ruler,  the 
Emperor  of  Germany,  lives  here  from  April 
until  December  of  each  year.  The  Crown 
Prince  has  now  a  palace  of  his  own.  He 
is  but  eighteen  years  old,  but  his  father,  the 
Emperor,  some  few  months  ago  presented 
him  with  this  lovely  palace. 

From  Berlin  we  went  to  Dresden,  a  most 
artistic  city  with  three  hundred  and  forty 
thousand  inhabitants.  The  River  Elba 
runs  beautifully  along  this  fine  city.  The 
Elba  is  crossed  by  two  mammoth  stone 
bridges.  One  of  the  finest  possessions  of 
56 


2Diar^  of  90^  Cutopean  tErip^  1900 

Dresden  is  its  beautiful  museum.  It  con- 
tains, at  this  date,  two  thousand  four  hun- 
dred fine  paintings,  and  many  valuable 
engravings.  Very  many  English  and 
American  families  are  living  in  Dresden 
and  having  their  children  educated  there 
because  it  offers  so  much  in  the  line  of 
amusement  and  culture ;  besides,  the  cost  of 
living  is  less  there  than  elsewhere.  From 
Dresden  w^e  returned  to  Berlin,  and  thence 
to  the  picturesque  little  city  of  Eisenach, 
situated  in  the  Thuringen  Wald  (Turien- 
gen  Forest).  The  town  is  built  in  the  very 
heart  of  the  forest,  and  dozens  of  hotels 
and  pensions  are  just  in  the  midst  of  these 
woods,  where  a  lovely  little  stream  winds 
right  along  its  centre.  Here  we  saw  the 
famous  Wacht  Burg  (the  Watch  Tower) 
where  Martin  Luther  found  a  place  of 
refuge,  and  here  he  rewrote  the  Bible.  We 
saw  the  room  in  which  he  wrote ;  the  ink- 
spots  are  still  to  be  seen  where  he  threw 
the  ink-well  against  the  wall.  Here  is  a 
most  picturesque  spot  to  enjoy  rural  life  in 
57 


SDiat^  of  ^^  European  XILtip,  1900 

a  health-giving  atmosphere.  A  noted  in- 
stitute for  speech  impediments  as  well  as 
other  schools  are  here  established.  From 
Eisennach  we  travelled  to  the  town  of  Elt- 
ville.  Here  we  got  to  the  world's  famous 
river  Rhine  in  all  its  beauty.  On  a  glori- 
ous day  we  embarked  up  the  Rhine  and 
enjoyed  the  many  beautiful  stopping-places*, 
not  forgetting  the  much  -  sung  poetical 
town  of  Bingen — yes,  "  The  Bingen  on  the 
Rhine  "  ;  thence  returning  and  again  view- 
ing the  lovely  old  castles,  and  going  up  this 
noble  river  to  Mayence.  This  city  is  the 
birthplace  of  Gutenberg,  the  inventor  of 
printing.  We  saw  the  house  where  he  was 
born  and  where  the  first  printing-office  was 
established.  This  inventor  of  printing  is 
much  more  spoken  of  and  his  memory 
more  revered  in  the  Old  than  in  the  New 
World.  Mayence  has  sixty-eight  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  was  a  French  town  for 
twenty-two  years,  or  from  1792  to  1814. 
It  then  became  Hessian.  It  also  possesses 
many  fine  monuments.  From  Mayence 
58 


SE>iat^  of  ^^  ([];ui[:opean  tlTrip^  1900 

we  returned  to  Nuremberg  for  the  fourth 
time.  After  bidding  our  friends  and  rela- 
tives a  Jinal  gooa-bye,  we  started  for  the 
Paradise  of  Europe,  Switzerland. 


r** 


59 


VII 

N  July  thirty-first,  we  arrived  at 
the  mountainous  town  of 
FHmms.  The  Wald  House 
FHmms  is  the  only  large  hotel, 
there  being  a  number  of  smaller 
taverns  and  pensions  to  choose 
from.  Here  we  took  what  is  called  a 
*' Nach  Kur"  (after  cure),  after  our  Carls- 
bad cure.  Here  one  takes  a  Luft  Kur 
(air  cure).  About  all  they  have  to  offer 
here  is  air.  I  greatly  resented  this,  as  I 
felt  that  when  one  could  live  and  breathe 
in  a  sublime  place  like  Interlacken,  it  was 
a  loss  of  time  to  go  up  to  this  mountain  re- 
sort, but  it  did  not  last  too  long.  We  were 
near  the  pretty  village  of  Richenau,  where 
we  could  look  at  the  head  of  the  great  river 
Rhine,  and  at  Timminz  Walderstein  on  the 
Walder  See,  and  also  had  a  glorious  view 
6i 


2Diar^  of  Wv  €nvoptmx  ^rip,  1900 

of  the  beautiful  Alps  and  the  fertile  valley 
below. 

On  August  fourteenth  we  started  for  the 
most  picturesque  city  of  Lucerne.  On  our 
way  thither  we  stopped  at  one  of  the  prin- 
cipal educational  cities  of  Switzerland,  the 
city  of  Zurich.  Its  greatest  beauty  is  its 
lake.  Lake  Zurich,  like  all  Swiss  lakes,  is  a 
beautiful  silvery  sheet  of  water  in  the  heart 
of  the  city.  The  great  educational  building 
is  the  polytechnic,  situated  on  an  eminence 
affording  a  fine  view  of  the  town  and  a  fine 
mountain  range  and  valley  scenery.  Our 
hotel,  the  Bauer  Au  Lac,  is  built  right  on 
the  very  edge  of  Lake  Zurich.  We  started 
for  Lucerne,  knowing  well  what  pleasure 
was  in  store  for  us,  for  everywhere  one 
hears  that  Lucerne  is  the  queen  city  of 
Switzerland.  Lucerne,  like  all  these  other 
Swiss  cities,  has  its  beautiful  lake — Lake 
Lucerne,  where  one  can  take  a  fine  boat- 
ride  right  in  sight  of  the  numerous  fine  ho- 
tels that  are  built  also  at  the  edge  of  this 

broad,  beautiful,  deep  lake.     The  first  thing 
62 


mm^  of  ^^  €nxoptm  ^tip,  1900 

one  is  supposed  to  go  to  see,  is  its  famous 
lion  of  Lucerne,  which  is  carved  in  the 
rock,  where  it  was  hewn  in  commemoration 
of  a  battle  where  thousands  of  Swiss  sol- 
diers perished.  Here  the  women  took  part 
in  the  battle  and  came  out  victorious,  and 
this  lion  was  carved  in  honor  of  their  vic- 
tory. Back  of  this  rock  is  a  wonderful 
Gletcher  Garden  (a  glacier),  where  huge 
millstones  are  still  lying  deep  down  the 
embankment  where  perhaps  thousands  of 
years  ago  they  had  been  hurled,  and  where 
snow  and  ice  must  have  had  its  home. 
Many  lovely  drives  are  to  be  taken  from 
Lucerne,  and  one  of  the  finest  places  to 
visit  is  the  Brienzen  See  (lake).  Then 
there  are  so  many  suburban  towns  to  go  to, 
like  Oxenstein  and  numerous  other  pen- 
sions, where  tourists  enjoy  the  fine  moun- 
tain air.  Above  all  lovely  places  to  see, 
first  in  number  comes  that  sublime  moun- 
tain scene,  the  Fier  Wald  Stetter  See.  My 
impression  is  that  nothing  can  rival  that 
glorious  sheet  of  water.  While  viewing 
63 


SDiat^  of  ^^  (Buropean  ®rip,  1900 

this  lovely  lake  one  drives  through  a  tunnel 
hewn  right  through  the  heart  of  the  great 
Swiss  mountains.  Coming  down  this  pic- 
turesque drive  one  gets  to  the  William  Tell 
chapel  (cappelle).  Here  a  great  painting 
is  enshrined  showing  where  Tell  threw  his 
enemy  into  the  seething  lake,  and  this 
chapel  was  built  at  the  edge  of  the  lake  to 
commemorate  this  deed.  One  leaves  Lu- 
cerne with  many  regrets,  and  I,  for  one, 
just  begged  for  a  few  days  more,  so  en-^ 
chanted  was  I ;  but  time  was  altogether  too 
short,  considering  what  was  yet  to  be  seen, 
and  our  itinerary  had  to  be  followed.  From 
Lucerne  we  travelled  to  Geneva,  also  a 
lovely  city  and  picturesque,  as  is  every 
place  belonging  to  Switzerland.  One 
would  be  disappointed  to  get  to  a  Swiss 
city  and  not  see  a  lovely  lake.  So  here 
again  I  admired  Lake  Geneva,  which  dif- 
fers from  the  other  lakes,  as  it  lies  in  the 
centre  of  the  city,  where  one  crosses  over  a 
fine  bridge  to  get  from  one  side  of  the 
street  to  the  other.  At  the  head  of  the 
64 


Diat^  of  ^1^  CEutopean  tlDnp^  1900 

town  a  queer  sight  shows  itself;  for  the 
River  Rhone  commingles  with  the  lake, 
and  the  two  different  colors  of  the  water, 
and  the  movement  of  both,  gave  me  a  fancy 
as  though  the  lake  and  the  river  were  hav- 
ing a  jolly  little  battle  with  each  other.  I 
cannot  tell  myself  even  anything  new  when 
I  say  that  Geneva  is  famous  for  its  numer- 
ous watch  factories;  for  I  well  remember 
the  joy  I  had  when  receiving  my  first  watch 
and  was  told  it  was  one  of  Geneva's  famous 
watches,  and,  by  the  way,  I  am  so  many 
years  young  now  that  I  have  worn  out  sev- 
eral Swiss  watches,  and  that  means  a  lot  of 
years  young,  for  they  do  wear  so  long  and 
well.  One  sees  streets  nearly  all  utilized  for 
watch  manufactories,  also  other  jewelry  is 
made  here.  Many  lapidaries  are  employed 
here,  as  the  cutting  of  precious  stones  is 
an  important  business  here.  Geneva  is 
a  very  ancient  city.  We  were  shown  the 
house  where  Calvin  was  born  and  here  Cal- 
vinism had  its  birth.  The  great  and  world- 
renowned  Red  Cross  Society  also  had  its 
65 


2l>iar^  of  ^^  Cl;uropran  ®ript  1900 

birth  in  Geneva,  where  first  a  small  num- 
ber banded  together  for  this  noble  work  of 
helping  one's  fellow-men,  and  this  banding 
together  has  broadened  humanity,  and  Gen- 
eva, with  all  its  other  great  things,  has  done 
wonders  for  humanitarianism.  Now  we 
must  bid  "  Au  revoir  "  to  beautiful  Switzer- 
land, and  get  well  primed,  for  we  are  going, 
guess  where?  Well,  to  the  city  of  cities,  I 
think — to  the  great,  the  only  Paris,  for  here 
all  comparison  with  other  cities  must  end. 


66 


VIII 

ARIS  is  not  like  the  Holy  City, 
far  from  it,  for  it  is  the  worldly, 
naughty  city,  but  it  is  Paris. 
The  nucleus  of  the  city  seemed 
to  me  to  be  the  grand-opera  house, 
as  from  there  all  streets  seem  to  go 
round  and  round.  Napoleon  III.  did  won- 
ders in  beautifying  Paris.  The  opera-house 
itself  is  a  creation  of  loveliness.  I  had  the 
delight  of  being  shown  through  this  mon- 
ster building  by  a  Parisian  gentleman,  who 
took  great  pride  in  showing  me  all  the 
wonderful  architecture.  A  small  lake  is  at 
one  of  the  lower  entrances,  also  a  beautiful 
fountain.  Its  huge  marble  pillars,  holding 
monster  statuary;  its  galleries  with  onyx 
balustrades;  the  retiring  balconies,  and 
wonderful  colonnade  and  foyer  where  hun- 
dreds of  people  promenade  between  acts ; 
all  and  everything  is  exclusive,  and  must  be 
67 


2r>iar^  of  ^^  European  tCrtp^  1900 

seen,  not  when  going  to  the  opera,  but  only 
when  going  to  see  the  opera-house.  There 
is  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  where  hundreds  of 
carriages  are  constantly  going  and  coming. 
Then  we  enjoyed  the  Exposition  of  1900, 
besides  the  many  marvels  to  be  seen  at  all 
times;  some  very  good,  some  fair,  but 
many  very,  very  bad.  For  the  feminine 
world,  how  charming  to  see  its  great  shops, 
and  its  Rue  de  la  Paix,  with  all  the  glitter 
and  show.  That  seems  worth  while  alone 
to  visit  Paris  for.  The  tomb  of  Napoleon 
is  one  of  the  many  interesting  sights  to  be- 
hold, near  the  Hotel  des  Invalides.  Here 
is  a  great  dome  structure,  all  marble  and 
gold,  with  great  art  windows.  One  enters 
by  ascending  broad  stone  steps  into  a  mar- 
ble vestibule.  Then  a  great  sight  meets 
the  eye.  In  the  centre  of  this  dome  build- 
ing is  another  rotunda,  with  vast  bronze 
railings,  then  deep  down,  to  be  reached  only 
by  a  flight  of  broad  marble  steps,  lies  the 
tomb  of  the  erstwhile  conqueror,  the  mon- 
arch Napoleon.  Connected  by  a  great 
6S 


SDiar^  of  ^^  European  tETrip,  1900 

garden  is  the  famous  old  palace,  the  "  Hotel 
des  Invalides,"  in  which  wonderful  paint- 
ings are  harbored ;  also  great  war  relics  and 
many  famous  souvenirs.  Then  one  sees 
the  fine  palace,  the  Louvre,  where  the 
greatest  French  rulers,  as  well  as  the  great 
disturbers  of  France,  the  great  rebels,  held 
their  sway,  and  where  so  many  outrages 
and  death  sentences  were  concocted.  To- 
day, however,  it  is  a  jolly,  a  peace-lov- 
ing, beautiful  Paris,  where  one  loves  to 
dwell  and  from  which  one  sorrows  to 
depart. 

No  one  omits  while  at  Paris  to  visit  the 
lovely  and  historical  city  of  Versailles.  We 
chose  a  lovely,  balmy  day,  and  one  upon 
which  we  were  assured  the  wonderful  foun- 
tains would  play.  On  our  way  thither  we 
got  a  fine  view  of  the  picturesque  town  of 
St.  Cloud  (Sin  Clew).  The  first  beautiful 
attraction  is  the  view  one  gets  of  the  won- 
derful gardens  and  terraces  and  fine  an- 
tique statues  surrounding  the  marble  ba- 
sins. Some  of  these  are  seen  spouting 
69 


SDiar^  of  ^^  European  ^tip,  1900 

water  as  high  as  seventy-five  feet.  Just  be- 
yond the  lovely  park  one  sees  the  two  fa- 
mous Trianons.  These  wonderful  palaces 
were  built  by  Louis  XIV.  The  larger  pal- 
ace was  built  as  a  retreat  for  Louis  XIV. 
Although  the  larger  Trianon  has  so  many 
grand  possessions  and  most  wonderful  an- 
tiquities, such  as  war  relics,  pictures,  and 
statues,  my  interest  seemed  to  lead  me 
again  to  the  little  Trianon,  the  small  palace, 
for  here  the  beautiful  Marie  Antoinette 
was  married  to  Louis  XVI.  She  spent 
much  of  her  time,  and  most  of  her  joys  and 
sorrows  came  to  her,  here.  Here,  in  Octo- 
ber, 1789,  she  was  nearly  assassinated.  I 
spent  a  goodly  time  looking  at  her  bridal 
chamber,  and  I  involuntarily  caressed  and 
passed  my  hands  lovingly  over  her  silken 
coverlets,  and  her  numerous  personal  be- 
longings, and  a  pity  came  over  me  to  think 
that  so  beautiful  a  woman  and  queen  should 
have  lived  so  greatly  admired,  and  finally 
such  a  fate  should  overtake  this  famous 
woman  and  ruler — to  be  guillotined.  Pre- 
70 


SDiar^  of  ^^  CBuropean  HTrip^  1900 

viously  the  famous  Marie  Theresa  also  in- 
habited the  beautiful  palace. 

Aside  from  the  lovely  gardens,  park,  and 
palaces,  Versailles  is  not  a  place  of  much 
importance  at  this  date. 

From  Versailles  back  to  Paris,  our  way 
leads  to  the  biggest  city  in  the  world,  the 
famous,  great  London.  Life  is  too  short 
to  write  up  London,  for  its  streets  have  no 
end,  and  its  people  are  an  ever-moving 
multitude.  When  one  has  travelled  over 
a  great  part  of  the  world  and  thinks  one 
has  seen  nearly  all,  one  stands  still,  awe- 
inspired,  before  the  great,  the  wonderful 
Westminster  Abbey,  the  silent  home  of  so 
much  past  glory,  so  much  past  wisdom,  and 
so  much  past  misery.  Here  one  comes 
face  to  face  with  it  all,  as  well  as  with  past 
treachery.  While  standing  at  the  tomb  of 
the  Immortal  Bard,  the  great  Shakespeare, 
one  realizes  how  the  glory  of  the  world 
passes  away.  How  very  haughty  and  royal 
lies  the  great  Elizabeth  upon  her  marble 
tomb,  as  well  as  her  unfortunate  kins- 
71 


2r>iar^  of  ^^  (European  ®ript  1900 

woman,  Marie,  Queen  of  Scots.  One  sees 
hosts  of  the  great  men  here  hewn  in  mar- 
ble— Byron,  Tennyson,  Longfellow,  of  the 
modern  centuries.  Then  walking  upon 
the  tombs  of  much  past  greatness,  one's 
skin  creeps.  Then  the  way  leads  into  the 
crypts  of  the  ancient  dead.  Here  a  musty 
chill  meets  you.  One  feels  ill  at  ease  until 
getting  back  into  the  life  and  miserly  bit 
of  London  sunshine.  Sir  Walter  Scott's 
presence  brings  so  many  reminiscences, 
and  the  numerous  Henrys  and  their  respec- 
tive consorts  make  a  sad  impression.  Eng- 
land has  much  indeed  in  its  Westminster 
Abbey.  Naturally,  before  leaving  London, 
a  visit  must  be  made  to  that  historical  home 
of  torture,  London  Tower.  Here  one 
needs  strength  and  fortitude  to  climb  the 
gruesome  heights.  The  long,  winding, 
worn  stone  steps  take  you  into  dismal 
chambers  where  implements  of  war  as 
well  as  implements  of  torture  are  exhibited. 
The  once  famous  Queen  Elizabeth  sits  on 

her  palfrey,  in  all  her  war  accoutrements, 
72 


Wiwc^  of  ^^  European  ^rip^  1900 

as  once  she  rode.  The  spears  and  thumb- 
screws, great  and  small  things,  all  are  still 
to  be  seen.  The  mysterious  torture-cham- 
bers are  still  in  evidence,  and  a  feeling  of 
relief  comes  when  leaving  this  all  behind 
and  getting  out  into  the  London  of  to-day, 
where  the  good,  old,  kind-hearted  Queen 
Victoria  rules.  London's  greatness,  in- 
cluding its  Hyde  Park,  and  all  its  numer- 
ous wonders,  can  no  longer  work  a  spell 
upon  us,  for  the  ship  will  soon  weigh 
anchor,  and  we  are  thinking  of  our  beloved 
America  and  our  precious  dear  ones  who 
are  anxiously  awaiting  us. 

All  the  foregoing  has  been  a  nice  diver- 
sion, and  these  notes  will  surely  bring,  in 
the  days  to  come,  a  pleasant  reminiscence. 
There  may  be  other  worlds,  there  surely 
are  many  other  cities  that  we  could  not 
visit,  but  what  has  been  seen  has  given 
great  delight  and  inspired  a  wish  to  see 
more.  Good-bye,  old  England !  The  bells 
are  ringing  for  the  dear  ones  and  Home, 
Sweet  Home! 

73 


SDiar)?  of  ^^  CDuropcan  Wtip^  1900 

On  October  sixteenth,  nineteen  hun- 
dred, the  new  century,  our  happiness  was 
completed,  for  we  returned  to  our  floral- 
bedecked  State  of  California,  where  our 
marvellous  Golden  Gate,  with  its  placid 
Pacific,  beckons  a  welcome  to  the  entire 
Orient.  In  our  beloved  San  Francisco 
our  reunion  was  celebrated,  and  the  ver- 
dict went  forth  that,  after  seeing  so  much, 
there  is  no  lovelier  nor  better  clime  in 
existence. 

In  God's  own  country  one  loves  to  dwell, 
Why  seek  for  more  where  all  proves  well  ? 


■>K" 


^- 


74 


UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 
BERKELEY 

Return  to  desk  from  which  borrowed. 
This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


icmiiD^'y^r 


m 


'i4i8n' 


6W\ 


JAN  4    196- 


LD  21-100m-7,'52(A2528sl6)476 


